A Theyyam performer in red costume and towering headdress

District 13 of 14

കണ്ണൂർ

Kannur

Land of looms, lore and Theyyam.

Quick facts

The heartland of Theyyam, where gods dance through village shrines each winter — and a coast of forts, handlooms, circus artists and Kerala's only Muslim royal house.

Formed

1 January 1957

As Cannanore district

Headquarters

Kannur

Area

2,966 km²

Population

25,23,003

Census of India 2011

Known for

  • Theyyam
  • Handlooms
  • Forts of St. Angelo & Thalassery
  • Thalassery biryani & cake

History

The story of Kannur

Kannur's history begins with Ezhimala, the hill on its northern coast, seat of the Mushika kings and of the chieftain Nannan, praised in Sangam poetry. Later the Kolathiris ruled Kolathunadu, while in Kannur town the Arakkal family established Kerala's only Muslim royal dynasty, ruled at times by queens, the Arakkal Beevis.

In 1505 Francisco de Almeida, the first Portuguese viceroy of India, built St. Angelo Fort on the cliffs at Kannur. The Dutch took it in 1663 and sold it to the Arakkal ruler in 1772, before the British captured it in 1790. Further south, the English East India Company set up a trading post at Thalassery in 1683 and completed a fort there in 1708.

Thalassery became an unusual cultural crossroads. The German missionary Hermann Gundert lived at Illikkunnu, where he published Rajyasamacharam, the first Malayalam newspaper, in 1847, and later compiled a landmark Malayalam–English dictionary. Thalassery is also remembered as the cradle of Indian circus, and a local baker, Mambally Bapu, baked what is often called the first Indian Christmas cake in 1883.

Kannur's looms produce furnishing fabrics sold worldwide, and its villages keep alive more than four hundred forms of Theyyam. Ezhimala now hosts the Indian Naval Academy, and Kannur International Airport opened in 2018.

Places to visit

8 places in Kannur

Seasons are a guide: the south-west monsoon arrives in June and the north-east rains in October–November.

  1. The laterite walls of St. Angelo Fort above the sea
    Fort
    01

    St. Angelo Fort

    A triangular laterite fort built by the Portuguese in 1505, overlooking Mappila Bay and its fishing harbour. Its ramparts, cannons and lighthouse view make it Kannur's best sunset spot.

  2. Ezhimala hill rising behind the beach
    Hills
    08

    Ezhimala

    An isolated hill on the coast, once the seat of the ancient Mushika kings and praised in Sangam poetry; today the Indian Naval Academy occupies much of it. The beach below is quiet and beautiful.

Taste, celebrate, perform

Food, festivals & art forms

ഭക്ഷണം

Food

  • Thalassery biryani

    Fragrant kaima rice with chicken or mutton, lighter and more aromatic than its cousins.

  • Thalassery cake

    The plum cake of Mambally Bakery, which baked India's first Christmas cake in 1883.

  • Arikkadukka

    Mussels stuffed with spiced rice paste, steamed and fried — a Malabar coastal treat.

ഉത്സവങ്ങൾ

Festivals

  • Theyyam season

    From roughly November to May, village shrines across north Kerala come alive with Theyyam performances.

  • Kottiyoor Vysakha Mahotsavam

    A forest-temple festival lasting around four weeks in May–June.

  • Puthari Thiruvappana

    The harvest festival at Parassinikkadavu each December.

കലകൾ

Art forms

  • Theyyam

    A ritual in which performers become gods, in more than four hundred forms, with spectacular costumes and make-up.

  • Poorakkali

    A vigorous dance performed by men around a lamp during the Pooram festival.

  • Kannur handlooms

    Furnishing fabrics woven by cooperatives and sold worldwide; they carry a GI tag.