A houseboat on the backwaters at Kumarakom

District 05 of 14

കോട്ടയം

Kottayam

Land of letters, latex and lakes.

Quick facts

Between Vembanad Lake and the eastern hills, Kottayam built Kerala's reputation for reading: printing presses, newspapers, colleges — and rubber estates rolling to the horizon.

Formed

1 July 1949

As a district of Travancore–Cochin; part of Kerala since 1 November 1956

Headquarters

Kottayam

Area

2,208 km²

Population

19,74,551

Census of India 2011

Known for

  • Total literacy pioneer
  • Rubber
  • Malayalam press & publishing
  • Kumarakom

History

The story of Kottayam

Kottayam takes its name from 'kotta-akam', the land inside the fort. It was the seat of the Thekkumkur kingdom until Marthanda Varma brought it into Travancore in the mid-eighteenth century. Its waterways linked the hills to the sea, and it became a market for pepper, and later for rubber.

The district is a centre of Kerala's Saint Thomas Christian community. The Kottayam Valiyapally, built in 1550 for the Knanaya community, keeps carved stone crosses with inscriptions in Pahlavi, the language of Persian Christians. Not far away, the Thazhathangady Juma Masjid on the Meenachil river is believed to be about a thousand years old.

In 1821 the Church Missionary Society set up a press here, where Benjamin Bailey cut some of the first Malayalam printing types, and CMS College had already opened in 1817, among the oldest colleges in India. Newspapers followed: Deepika in 1887, and Malayala Manorama, founded in 1888. In 1945 writers founded a cooperative publishing society here, and in 1989 Kottayam became the first town in India to achieve total literacy.

Kottayam also gave India one of its great social-reform struggles: the Vaikom Satyagraha of 1924–25, a peaceful campaign for the right of so-called lower castes to use the roads around the Vaikom temple, supported by Gandhi and led by local reformers. Today the district is the heart of India's natural rubber economy and home to the Rubber Board.

Places to visit

7 places in Kottayam

Seasons are a guide: the south-west monsoon arrives in June and the north-east rains in October–November.

  1. A houseboat moored in the calm backwaters of Kumarakom
    Backwater
    01

    Kumarakom

    A cluster of islands on the eastern shore of Vembanad Lake, with resorts, canoe trails and sunsets over the water. Village tours show coir-making, toddy-tapping and clam fishing.

  2. Trees leaning over the lake shore at the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary
    Wildlife
    02

    Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary

    A former estate on the lakeshore, laid out by the Englishman Alfred George Baker, now a sanctuary of mangroves and trails. Herons, egrets, darters and cormorants are joined by migrants in winter.

    Best time · November – February (early morning)

    Google Maps(opens Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary in Google Maps, new tab)
  3. The Vaikom Mahadeva Temple compound
    Temple
    03

    Vaikom Mahadeva Temple

    One of Kerala's great Shiva temples, famous for its Vaikathashtami festival and for the Vaikom Satyagraha fought on the roads around it. A memorial nearby honours the campaigners.

    Best time · November – December (Vaikathashtami)

    Google Maps(opens Vaikom Mahadeva Temple in Google Maps, new tab)

Taste, celebrate, perform

Food, festivals & art forms

ഭക്ഷണം

Food

  • Meen vattichathu

    Kottayam's red fish curry, darkened and soured with kudampuli and cooked down in a clay pot.

  • Beef ularthiyathu

    Beef slow-roasted with coconut slivers, pepper and curry leaves — a Syrian Christian classic.

  • Appam & stew

    Lacy fermented rice pancakes with a mild coconut-milk stew, the Sunday breakfast of central Kerala.

ഉത്സവങ്ങൾ

Festivals

  • Vaikathashtami

    The great festival of the Vaikom temple, held in the Malayalam month of Vrischikam (November–December).

  • Ettumanoor Ezharaponnana

    The display of the golden elephants during the temple festival.

  • Feast of St. Alphonsa

    Pilgrims gather at Bharananganam on 28 July at the tomb of Saint Alphonsa, the first Indian woman canonised, in 2008.

കലകൾ

Art forms

  • Margamkali

    A circular dance of the Saint Thomas Christians, sung around a lamp that represents Christ.

  • Publishing & literature

    Kottayam's presses and the writers' cooperative made it the publishing capital of Malayalam.